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Hash & Oil In this forum you can learn how to make your own hash or honey oil or maybe you just want to share your thoughts and experiences on it.

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  #1  
Old 05-11-2006, 11:37 PM
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Default ISO hash!!!

Harvested trim and made some Iso wash oil!!!

I might make a tutorial next harvest!!

Big Bud Trimmings day 5 something
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  #2  
Old 06-04-2006, 08:54 PM
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can you post pic of what you use to make iso hash and what amount of leaves you use and how much you get i'm just curious to see if iso gives more hash than the way i do it
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  #3  
Old 06-09-2006, 04:12 PM
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you'll get roughy the same return as BHO if you do it right...but in the end.. yeild with extractions are greatly dependent on the strain/ quality of material you start with.



^^^^^^
here's my FAQ on making golden ISO hashoil....prolly the most copied thread on ISO on the net...feel free to incorporate in onto this site...just be sure Im listed as the author...and dont modify the tek.
hope you guys enjoy
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:46 AM
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Default ninja's iso thread copy& paste

ninja
==|HerbalAssassin=-



Default Using Isopropyl Alcohol for Oil extraction
Here's a step by step method for extracting THC goodness form Schwagg, trim, or buds with common Isopropyl alcohol.
I didn't invent this method, Ganja Nazi and Nardsofdank have been doing this longer than I have, but I'm pretty good at it .
All extractions are done in a well ventilated place, outdoors, as alcohol is VERY flammable and can EXPLODE!!!!

14 grams frosty trim
70% Iso alcohol ( 99%,91%,70%,or even 50% is fine... only difference is evap time)
mason jar
permanent coffee filter
paper coffee filter
corning ware plate
pot of boiling water
razor blade scraper

For this example, I'll be using 70% ISO.
Store brand "Isopropyl 70%", contains 70 % Isopropyl alcohol and 30% distilled water.

The trim is placed in the jar, and covered with Isopropyl alcohol.
Lid is placed on jar and jar is shaken for NO LONGER THAN 2 MINUTES.
That's the key.
2 minutes or less. Any longer and the solvent pulls too much chlorophyll and plant sugar into the mix.
The alcohol is poured though the paper coffee filter ( held firm by the permanent filter) and strained into the plate.

( plant matter is discarded. It's useless now as all the goodness is dissolved into the alcohol.
the plate is set on top of a pot of boiling water, so the heat from the steam can warm the plate without degrading the THC.

as the last of the moisture is evaporated, all that is left is a golden goodness filled with THC essence.








Goodness...folds of golden goodness...hehe

















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Last edited by CB; 07-10-2006 at 06:15 AM.
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  #5  
Old 07-10-2006, 04:25 AM
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Default Using Butane for Oil Extraction by hashmasta-kut

Hello to all people interested in obtaining high grade extractions from marijuana product using butane. That’s the topic I am going to cover as thoroughly as I can, in order to allow newcomers a guide to follow. Also I will give tips and tricks I have managed to glean/ pick up over the last few years.




Ok what one does, is to acquire a quantity of marijuana product. Stems are not really any good, as well as leaves devoid of trichomes; butane mainly dissolves trichomes, it seems from observation, so in order to get a good yield / quality its nice to use good material. I often use pure bud. Bud gives the tastiest and nicest colored oil, although close trim leaves yield a product very similar in potency. It is also possible to screen or otherwise collect kif from large quantities, and extract from it.



crappy quality kif ..



In one quick blurb here is the whole shebang; you take a tube of glass or stainless, preferably, stuff it full of weed and run butane through with a filter on the exit end to keep the weed in, into a glass collection dish and evaporate it sitting in a dish of hot water, and then you have a film of oil on the glass you scrape up with a razor blade and purge the butane out of, and you are done. The particular method I use for purging gives me a whole extraction time of under an hour and a half, although there are other methods and beliefs….
Ok now step by step, no rushing….its nice like that though all in one sentence. It can be referred to if you get confused as to the overall procedure at any time. First off, you need a tube. Smaller diameter is better, so a tube with a ½ inch diameter is more efficient than a tube with an inch diameter. I use a tube approx ¾ of an inch in diameter, as it was handy and any thinner it would be a chore to empty as well. Smaller tube diameter allows more complete saturation of the medium, as well as greater flow rate of butane through the medium which seems beneficial for effective extracting.
The tricky part of getting a good tube is having a good entrance hole for the butane nozzle. Butane gas always comes in a can with a tip that is a certain size(for lighters), so making an end cap that a butane can be inserted into and depressed is the key. Several solutions have been used, ranging from copper tubes with an end cap attached that you can drill a proper size hole into, to glass turkey basters that have a nice size end naturally, to stainless turkey basters now, which are quite easy to rig up, I hear. My solution isn’t really feasible for most, I used to be into mountain bikes bigtime, and I take parts from them to use for other things, such as extraction tubes.
PVC tubing has been said to be bad, and I would shy away from it, but I have seen evidence from someone that rigid PVC is perfectly acceptable. Do your own research if you don’t use glass or steel, is my advice.






Ok lets suppose you have a tube that you can insert a butane nozzle in to one end of… you want it to be leak proof around the edge of your tube at the top. The tube doesn’t have to be straight; turkey basters taper usually. Don’t use tape to seal leaks, you may leach tape glue into your oil.




the tape in that pic doesnt come in contact with the butane flow. i used a butane adaptor end stuck in my tub end. my other tube has a carved hole the right size...

So you have a tube, fill it with your extractables. I have a tube witch holds about 10 – 14 grams, and another that holds about 25-35 grams. You don’t need to fill the tube completely, but it seems best for efficient extractions to put the product in there a bit snugly. I don’t recommend grinding up your extracting medium too fine, as you will get a greener less tasty oil almost for sure. Sometimes I use whole buds, then I re-extract from them, after grinding them up in order to get all the goodness (especially if it cost me money). Other times I cut them up coarsely, or just break them up by hand into little pea sized chunks. Leaf is like whatever.. just cram it in.



So now you have a tube with weed product in it, you will want to cap the exit end. At the exit end of your tube you want to attach a minimum of one coffee filter circle. I cut them from white coffee filter papers, (brown would be better probly, no dioxins…). I make it about an inch in diameter larger than the tube. I use two actually, and there are occasions where the filter papers can rip.






Uneven packing is the main culprit; don’t pack tightly at the entrance end, then loosely down the tube, the extracting medium can shift suddenly and blow out. If one is worried about this, use a steel mesh safety screen, such as tea strainer material. I have had blowouts more times than I can remember, and one time I got two eyefuls of oil laden butane…. Not pleasant I must say.
Next, get a steel hose clamp, for most tube types, and fold the filters over the exit end and use the hose clamp to hold them on. Tighten the hose clamp, no doubt. I am not sure all the methods use to hold the filter on for different tube types, just remember you don’t want to extract any glues from tape etc….
I use one can of colibri (300 ml) butane for about 9 grams of quality marijuana. I have access to lots of butane, so I use lots to fully extract from my product. Others use less, I would too if I had immense quantities of marijuana. There is a list at keen marketing…http://www.keen-newport.com/ourBenchmark.htm which lists types manufactured to a certain purity standard; most butane oil makers recommend using only quality butane, as additives and impurities in low quality butane may be inhaled….



Now is the dangerous part of extracting, first running the butane through the marijuana, and then second evaporating it off. Its easy to put the butane through. Just hold the tube vertical with one hand, with a protective mitt (tube freezes), and insert the butane tip and depress, letting the whole can go through without stopping. Put a glass dish under to catch it. I use a pyrex pie plate. You can go slower, and stop and start, to try and slow down the butane’s progress through the weed, but it makes little difference.




Now you have a dish of liquid butane, and this is the most dangerous moment… for if this were to ignite, the fast and furious fireball would probably burn off all your exposed body hair… etc..etc…. lets just not go there….!
You need to evaporate off the butane, and easiest is to get a frying pan or what fits well to go under your dish of butane, in order to double boiler style remove the butane. I use hot water from the tap as I think boiling water is detrimental somehow to the easy removal of all the butane, but its open for debate. It seems hot water is better than boiling.. do your own tests if you want.



i purge my oil a bit different these days, and it always comes out brittle(rocklike but shatterable) hard or very close to.

i do a hot water bath(tap hot) to get rid of the liquid butane(outside), then i take it inside and put it on the stove to keep it hot for about a half hour or a bit more. i turn the element on a couple times, just to maintain the heat of the hot water bath to be very hot( just brought to a boil).it seems about ten minutes per gram of extract is enough time. i put a lid on top of the oil dish to make it warm like a little oven in there, to make the top surface of the oil much softer and more easily evaporating the solvent traces out. also, i take my handheld butane torch to gently raze/pop any bubbles and pools of oil from above a couple times.only flaming bubbles are butane. you can cook bubbles out for hours really, but you dont want to and actually those bubbles arent butane when removed at this stage, but actually thc volatiles gassing out of the hot oil mix. its necessary to heat it to a certain degree to remove the last trapped butane but carefull heating is the key to achieving rock hard oil and sacrificing the least amount of good thc volatiles. its do-able( a whole extraction) in about an hour. also a symptom of harshness in the oil is a slight haze or cloudiness in it. you can see minute traces of this before doing my final heat purge technique, and the oil tastes harsh b-cuz of it. after carefully gently removing the cloudy traces, then the oil is completely tasty. not sure and actually dont think this is butane, but some terpene component, actually.


The tricky part of getting a good tube is having a good entrance hole for the butane nozzle. Butane gas always comes in a can with a tip that is a certain size(for lighters), so making an end cap that a butane can be inserted into and depressed is the key. Several solutions have been used, ranging from copper tubes with an end cap attached that you can drill a proper size hole into, to glass turkey basters that have a nice size end naturally, to stainless turkey basters now, which are quite easy to rig up, I hear. i have an end, that was solid, and its made of aluminum, and i just took a knife and drilled a hole by hand in the end of it the right size. the butane cans have a nozzle with a little lip halfway up it, so if you make a hole just big enough for the end to fit in, it will depress the nozzle when you insert it far enough. also, sometimes using the lighter adaptor pieces the come with the can of butane is feasible to get a tight fit. you really want a leakproof fit up top. its better, less butane wasted, and less coldness up top for your hands etc.
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  #6  
Old 07-10-2006, 10:47 AM
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Yanno, it really is a good tutorial.

Thanks for taking your time to get it up here Midwest and Ninja for writing it in the first place.

Lets all be pals.
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:04 PM
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there is 2 diffrent tutorials there one is by ninja and the the other is by hashmasta-kut.Ninja wrote the ISO tutorial and hash wrote the BHO tutorial.Each of which is 13 page threads.I tried to just grab the jist of it and set an incognito link to the source,but i got caught.so after 300 or so pm's i'll copy the rest and post it also.Im not going to just post peeps info with out asking each one of them if i can, so it might be awhile before i get the rest up.There is a ton of good info in the two threads,but for me to go grab just the good info with out the questions leading up to it would make no sense at all.
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