Bugs

[Fillabong]

This is an aphid. They are evil doers and weapons of mass destruction in a growroom. I am on a crusade to rid the world of the ones who wish to do harm to our plants. Ladybugs and hot, dry conditions are the best defence against aphids. If you have aphids please join our support group:)

I picked this little fucker off an impatien and set it on a towel for a photo op. Don't worry, I killed it. Death by finger:D

Now you all know what an aphid is and how to get rid of them.

Someone else to do another bug.

[Mel]

Spider mites are the scurge of the universe, they have no other purpose but to destroy crops of all kinds .. think we have it bad with them talk to a soy bean or corn farmer. I think they do have an anti mite suppoort group

[FreedaWeed]

Here is a great link for identification and control measures for about every variety of pest.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.home.html

[Mr Burns]

Dolphins.

Yes Dolphins. Don't be put off by the nicey nicey smile these little fuckers give. They also jump into captivity and have people paying to swim with them. Cunning little fuckers.
That's not where it stops either. These fuckers want your and my nutrient bottles so they can beach themselves somewhere and have a right feckin party, This normally goes tits up cause locals go push em back in. 2thumbs

So. Watch these slippery little shits and hide your fish mix. Once they find that theres no telling what they'll do ................:peace:


http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=713&stc=1&d=1134248331

[Dibbz]

I cant remember where i saw them but the were tea-bags full of predators(lil mite eating mites) they dont harm your plant at all...Best thing i thought about these tea-bags was you could just hang em on your plant somewhere close to the spidermites and they slowly realease themselves from the bag and et rid of the small pests then just disappear probably out into the big wide world!!!

[milagro]

Someone else to do another bug.




Good idea for a thread.

This is a thrip (http://www.keele.ac.uk/depts/aep/thrips.htm).

http://www.keele.ac.uk/depts/aep/images/thripsan.gif
Thrips can devastate your crop. I had them a while back but they didn't look like this. They were larvae and looked like grains of rice but one twentieth the size.

They will live on your leaves and suck them dry. They leave shiny trails on the top of the leaf, a sure sign.

I was lucky and persevered by repeatedly spraying with a soap spray. There are other solutions, but they are a tough critter to kill.

<edit> BTW _ Burnsy, while I concur that dolphins, especially the Atlantic Bottlenose, are a threat to your grow....

one should only be concerned if he/she grows hydro. They can barely swim through soil. :D



milagro

[milagro]

Someone else do another bug.






Good idea for a thread.




I'll say it again....

this is a great idea for a thread. If taken seriously, and a few of us come up with just the insects we know about, this could be a helpful tool.

Could become a sticky as a simple reference area to checkout when one gets infested. So, with that in mind, and with the winter season upon us, I present you with the humble springtail;

http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/trees/ef406spr.gif

Interestingly, the springtail can look like a hundred different bugs. The one thing they all have in common, is the ability to leap into the air with the aid of their tail.

They move indoors mainly in the cold season and love cold damp places. They hate dry. They are absolutely no harm to your grow. I have them in my vegging plants in the bodega right now.

They live only in the soil and eat decaying matter, not growing plants. HERE (http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/pests/g07363.htm)'s some more info, and HERE (http://www.boredomresearch.net/park/springtails.html) is a simulated display of how they jump.

Bring on the next bug. :cool:



milagro

[Cranky]

no bug at the mo but i'll post one up in abit....just wanted say milagro.....i just spent the last half an hour trying to get all them little fookers upto the top ledge....

ya get so far and then one lands on another which in turn lands on another and before ya know it there all jumping all over the place and ya back where ya started:rolleyes:

doh!

back with a bug in abit2thumbs

cranky

[milagro]

ya get so far and then one lands on another which in turn lands on another and before ya know it there all jumping all over the place and ya back where ya started:rolleyes:




That's exactly what they're like in my soil too. :laugh:



milagro

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lmfao@burns..:D

yea, I think a critter thread would make a great sticky...I have mitemares..so I'm out. :p

:peace:

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okay..might as well start a critter thread..maybe we can toss contributions here and trim it up l8r as a sticky???

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Aphids

http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1586a.jpg
Aphids are typically less than 1/10" long, but since they appear in clusters, they're easy to spot.
Aphids are found throughout the United States. These small, soft-bodied insects may be pale green, pink, black, or yellow, depending on the species. Some stages of the life cycle are winged, others wingless. Aphids feed on a wide variety of plants, including most edible and ornamental plants. Clustering on tips of new growth and leaf undersides, they suck plant juices causing leaves to become distorted and yellow.
Aphids secrete a sugary fluid called honeydew that attracts ants and may cause the growth of a sooty black fungus on leaves. In small numbers aphids do little damage, but they reproduce rapidly. They can also spread diseases among plants.
Control

Start by rinsing plants with a strong spray of water to reduce the population. If aphids return, spray with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. When spraying, be sure to cover the undersides of leaves. A variety of natural insect parasites and predators also reduce aphid populations, which is the main reason to not be overly aggressive with sprays.

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Leafminer




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1623a.jpg
Leafminer damage on beet.
Though many different insects are known as leafminers the most common are the larvae of tiny black flies. They tunnel between the upper and lower layers of leaf tissue creating visible random trails, or mines, in the process. Adult flies lay eggs on the undersides of leaves. After hatching, larvae tunnel into leaves to feed, gaining some protection from predators there. They are pests to beets, chard, lettuce, peppers, potatoes, and spinach. Control

Protect leafy vegetable crops with a lightweight row cover. Pick off and destroy infested leaves. Encourage natural parasites that attack leafminers by not spraying pesticides

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Mealybugs




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1624a.jpg
Mealybugs rarely reach more than 1/16" long, but because they feed in clusters they're easy to spot.
Several species of mealybugs pose problems for gardeners across North America. Host plants include citrus, apples, peaches, grapes, potatoes, and a number of tropical plants -- including houseplants. These tiny insects appear in clusters on the undersides of leaves and clumped in the forks of twigs and branches where they suck plant juices. As they feed, some species inject toxins that damage plant tissues.
Mealybugs are oval in shape, with a grainy, dusty looking surface that is actually a protective waxy coating. Large clumps of mealybugs may resemble fur or lint attached to a plant. Symptoms of their presence include yellowing leaves and dark, dirty patches on leaves, which is actually sooty mold growing on the sweet mealybug excretion called honeydew.
In regions without freezing winters, mealybugs are present year round. In colder climates, there may be 2 to 3 generations per year. The pests overwinter as eggs in cottony egg sacs or as tiny nymphs (the juvenile stage, commonly called crawlers).
Control

Controls include insecticidal soap and horticultural oil. Natural enemies include the mealybug destroyer (a kind of ladybug), lacewings, and mealybug parasite (a tiny wasp).

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Spider Mites




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1633a.jpg
A tiny, lone mite is hard to spot, but the webbed colonies are obvious.
There are numerous kinds of mites, also known as spider mites, and many feed on plants. They congregate in dense colonies in webs on the undersides of leaves. Symptoms of their feeding show up as silvering or a stippled effect on the leaf top, but the precise symptom varies with the plant. Turn over affected leaves and you're likely to find spider mite webbing; if you rub the leaf it will feel gritty. Mites feed on many kinds of plants, edible and ornamental. Houseplants are a favorite target.
Control

Hot, dry, and dusty conditions encourage mites. Keep plants well watered and wash them off frequently. If you detect an infestation, first spray plants with a forceful stream of water to knock mites from the leaves. If the infestation persists, spray plants with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, covering the undersides of leaves thoroughly. In orchards, buy and release predatory mites, and encourage any that are already present by not spraying insecticides.

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Thrips




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1665a.jpg
A magnified thrips.
Unless you have a magnifying glass, you probably won't see these tiny pests on your plants, but you may notice signs of their presence, including black, shiny speckles (droppings), silvery stippling (masses of tiny discolored scars on plant parts), or, in severe cases, deformed growth.
Magnification shows thrips to be shiny, elongated blackish or yellowish insects. Adults have feathery, fringed wings, and nymphs lack wings. There are many generations per year. Thrips prefer to feed on new, rapidly growing plant tissue where it is easy to hide. Most feeding by thrips causes only slight damage, but high populations can be quite destructive. Feeding thrips can prevent rose buds from opening, and results in deformed petals. Certain species spread viruses to tomatoes and impatiens. Thrips also attack asparagus, cabbage, lettuce, onions, peas, flowers, and fruit and shade trees.
Control

Natural enemies generally keep thrips populations below damaging levels. Conserve natural enemies by reducing or eliminating pesticide use. Locate garden plants away from weedy, grassy borders where thrips live. Keep plants well watered, and fertilize judiciously to prevent overly lush growth. Dormant oil is a useful control on fruit trees.

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Whiteflies




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1641a.jpg
An adult whitefly is typically 1/16" long.
This pest is found throughout the United States. The tiny insects feed in large numbers by sucking plant juices from the leaves and stems of many plants, including tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, flowers, trees, and shrubs.
Whiteflies secrete a sticky, sugary substance called honeydew that may cause the growth of a sooty black fungus on leaves. Eggs laid on leaf undersides hatch into tiny larvae that look like flat, oval, semitransparent scales. The larvae reach adulthood within a about a month of hatching.
Control

Spray plants with a stream of water from a garden hose to dislodge the majority of the pests before applying insecticidal soap or other approved product. For effective control, follow instructions on the product label for an appropriate spray schedule.
Whiteflies cannot survive freezing temperatures. They are reintroduced to northern regions each year on the wind and infested plants. Check plants carefully for whiteflies before purchasing.

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Squash Bug




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1634a.jpg
Adult squash bugs are 5/8" long.
Squash bugs are found throughout the United States. Adult bugs are flat-backed, brown, and about 1/2 inch long; the immature nymphs resemble adults but are pale colored with black legs. This insect attacks all kinds of cucurbits, but it usually prefers squashes and pumpkins. Adults and nymphs feed by sucking juices from leaves, causing leaves to wilt, dry up, and turn black.
Adults overwinter under plant debris or in the soil. They usually emerge about the time vines begin to "run." Females lay clusters of reddish-brown or bronze-colored eggs on the undersides of leaves. There is a single generation per year.

Prevention and Control

Choose squash varieties resistant to the pest. Lay shingles or boards in the garden at night; bugs will hide under them during the day, and you can collect and destroy hiding bugs first thing in the morning. Crush any egg clusters you find on the undersides of leaves.

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Tarnished Plant Bug




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1638a.jpg
An adult tarnished plant bug is 1/2" long.
This bug gets its name from its coppery-brown color. It is a major pest, especially for commercial growers. The list of favorite hosts reads like a catalog of major crops: apples and cotton to flowers and vegetables. In other words, if it grows and you want it, tarnished plant bug probably does too. It's a pest throughout most of North America.
Nymphs are the more destructive stage. As they feed they inject a toxin into the plant tissue that stunts or otherwise deforms growth. These sleek insects move very quickly, and adults fly when disturbed. Adults and nymphs overwinter in weedy patches and organic debris, emerging in late spring to feed on young weeds and grasses before moving to favored crops.
Prevention and Control

As with so many pests, control begins with a tidy garden: Keep the garden area free of weeds, and remove organic debris from the garden at the end of the season. Use a lightweight fabric row cover to protect plants, but remove it from fruiting crops during bloom to allow access to pollinating insects. Encourage natural enemies such as ladybugs, spiders, parasitic wasps, birds, and toads. For more specific measures to control serious outbreaks, check with your cooperative extension agent.

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Stinkbug




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1636a.jpg
Stinkbugs are shield-shaped and typically reach a size of 5/8".
Various species of this pest are found throughout the United States, though they are more common in the South. Stinkbugs are shield-shaped and may be green, brown, or bluish-gray. They give off an unpleasant odor when crushed. Stinkbugs feed on okra, squash, beans, tomatoes, and a number of other plants by sucking plant juices. New shoots may wilt, and fruits are distorted with hard, dimpled areas. Adults overwinter in garden debris and in nearby weedy areas. There are several generations per year.
Prevention and Control

Spray or dust with approved insecticides. Keep weeds around the garden in control. Clean up the garden at the end of the season. Hand-pick stinkbugs in early morning when they are slow moving.

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Earwig




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1605a.jpg
Earwigs grow to be about an inch long. And they can pinch, so handle them carefully.
These reddish-brown nocturnal creatures feed primarily on decaying organic matter or other insects, hiding in dark, damp places during the day. They are found throughout the United States, and when their populations are high, they may cause damage in the garden by feeding on a variety of plants such as lettuce, corn, celery, tender young seedlings, and blossoms and ripening fruits.
Control

If earwigs are a problem in your garden, trap and destroy them. One method is to fill a flowerpot with crumpled paper, then place it upside down in the garden with a stick to prop it slightly off the ground. During the day earwigs will crawl into the paper to hide, at which point you can collect them.

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Root Maggot




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1631a.jpg
Root maggots are small but destructive.
Root maggots are the larvae of flies that lay their white eggs in the soil at the base of host plants. Adults are gray and nondescript, and about the size of a housefly.
There are several different species that target different host plants. Onion maggots seek out anything in the onion family, including garlic and leeks; cabbage maggots look for any cabbage-family plant, including broccoli or turnips. Both onion and cabbage maggots are more common in the northern half of the United States.
The maggots are most active during the cool weather of spring and fall. Maggots disfigure crops with their tunneling, but the main problem is the entry points they create for rot diseases such as black rot. Infested plants lack vigor, may be stunted, and are prone to wilting during the heat of the day.
Prevention and Control

Check plants that show symptoms and immediately destroy any that are infested. Beneficial nematodes can be effective in controlling the larvae. Adults are attracted to

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Wireworms




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1642a.jpg
It's easy to identify the shiny golden wireworm, which grows to be 1" to 1-1/2" long.
These golden brown hard-shelled worms are the larvae of click beetles, and are found throughout the United States. They live in the soil where they feed on stems, roots, seeds, and tubers of a wide variety of plants, including corn, potatoes, beets, carrots, and sweet potatoes. They are seldom a serious problem, but they are most likely to appear in large numbers in garden soil that was recently covered by sod.
Prevention and Control

Cultivation and crop rotation are usually all it takes to keep populations low. You can test your soil for the presence of wireworms by spearing pieces of potato on sticks and burying them 2 to 4 inches deep. Dig up the pieces after a week and inspect for wireworms feeding inside. If wireworm populations are very high, use beneficial nematodes to reduce their numbers.

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Cutworm




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1604a.jpg
Cutworms tend to reach 2" in length.
Several kinds of surface-feeding caterpillars are known as cutworms. Their name reflects their feeding habit, which is to chew plant stalks until they are cut through. They feed on many garden plants, and are especially fond of seedlings. Cutworms emerge at night, curling themselves around plant stalks to feed. Cutworms hide during the day, usually an inch or so below ground and near the scene of the crime.
There are three types of cutworms, each characterized the site of feeding: on plant roots; on seedlings at ground level; on buds above ground level. Adult cutworms are dark-colored, night-flying moths.
Prevention and Control

If your garden has been affected by cutworms in the past, take preventive measures. Apply beneficial nematodes to soil just prior to planting. A protective collar of cardboard circling each seedling and extending 2 inches below and above ground is an effective barrier. A band of diatomaceous earth around seedlings may deter egg-laying adults.
Cutworms are also vulnerable to predatory insects, including ground beetles and soldier beetles.

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Beneficial Insects


Lacewings




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1616a.jpg
The larvae of a green lacewing busily feeding on aphids. Larvae can grow to 3/8" long.
Lacewings are found throughout the United States. They are predators of many garden pests including aphids, thrips, mites, whiteflies, and other small, soft-bodied pests and their eggs.
The larvae are yellowish-gray, mottled with brown, and have large mouthparts. They reach 3/8 inch long before pupation. These are commonly called aphid lions, and they are voracious feeders, eating 200 or more pests or their eggs per week between hatching and pupation.
Most adult lacewings get their sustenance from pollen, nectar, and the honeydew produced by aphids and scales. Some species also feed upon pests.
Adults of the most common species are slender and bright green, with delicate veined wings and long antennae. Eggs of lacewings are easy to identify, as they are laid in groups with each egg held aloft on a threadlike stalk. Eggs hatch in 3 to 5 days; the larval stage lasts 2 or three weeks. Pupation lasts about 5 days, and adults live for 4 to 6 weeks. Females lay about 200 eggs in that time. There are 3 to 4 generations per year.
Attract lacewings to your garden with food and moisture: Small and shallow-faced flowers provide adult lacewings easy access to pollen and nectar. Plant alyssum, herbs from the dill family, and flowers from the daisy family. If you have a bird bath or pool in your garden, place stones in the water so lacewings have a place to land and drink safely.

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Parasitic Wasps




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1626a.jpg
A Braconid wasp doing it's good work.
Several tiny wasps are parasites of garden pests. Most common are the Ichneumon wasps, Braconid wasps (pictured at left), and Chalcid wasps. You're much more likely to see the work of these tiny parasitic wasps than the insects themselves: a tomato hornworm festooned with white rice-like cocoons, or a black or golden aphid mummy with a tiny hole in it.
Don't flinch at the mention of wasps. These are not the aggressive yellow jackets or ominous looking black paper wasps. Few species of parasitic wasps sting, and then only when they're picked up and mishandled. They're so tiny you're unlikely to be aware of their presence.
Several species of Ichneumon wasps parasitize garden pests such as cutworms, corn earworm, white grubs, and various caterpillars. The largest of the parasitic wasps, the adults range in size from 1/8 to 1-1/2 inches, sporting long antennae, legs, and long, slender bodies. Females have long tail-like egg-laying tubes. Colors range from black to yellowish.
Braconid wasps are tiny, ranging in length from 1/16 to 5/16 inch, with stout bodies. Host pests include various species of aphids, garden webworm, tomato hornworm, armyworms, strawberry leaf roller, and tent caterpillar, among others. Most are dark with some colored markings, but they are so tiny it's hard to see these colors without magnification.
Chalcid wasps range from 1/64 to 5/16 inch in length. They do not fold their wings when at rest like other wasps. This group includes the well-known Trichogramma wasp>. These are available commercially for pest control purposes because they are effective parasites of pest caterpillars including cabbage worm, tomato hornworm, corn earworm, codling moth, cutworm, armyworm, webworm, cabbage looper, and corn borer. Other Chalcid species parasitize aphids, strawberry leaf roller, and other hairy caterpillars.
To encourage the help of these beneficial insects in your garden, supply them with food and moisture. Adult wasps feed on nectar and pollen. Small and shallow-faced flowers provide easy access to these tiny beneficial insects. Plant alyssum, herbs from the dill family, and flowers from the daisy family. If you have a bird bath or pool in your garden, place stones in the water so wasps have a place to land and drink safely.

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Ladybugs




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1622a.jpg
Ladybugs are typically 1/4" long or smaller.
Adult ladybugs, or ladybird beetles, are typically a brick red or orange with black markings. But some are black, often with red markings. Their larvae look like miniature alligators, and they live up to their appearance by being voracious predators of many garden pests. That's why ladybugs are among the most visible and best known beneficial predatory insects.
There are more than 450 species of ladybugs in North America. Some are native and some have been introduced from other countries. Most North American species are beneficial, with both adults and larvae feeding primarily on aphids. They also feed on mites, small insects, and insect eggs. (There are two pest species in the group: the Mexican bean beetle and the squash beetle. Both adults and larvae of those species feed on plants.)
Most ladybugs found in gardens are aphid predators. Some species prefer only certain aphids while others will seek out and dine on most any kind of aphid. Some prefer mite or scale species. If aphids are scarce, they'll feed on the eggs of moths, beetles, mites, thrips, and other small insects, as well as pollen and nectar. Not as delicate and refined as they seem, they'll also feed on their own young.
Because of their ability to survive on other prey when aphids are in short supply, ladybugs are particularly valuable natural enemies of pests.
Ladybugs overwinter as adults, often in aggregations along hedgerows, beneath leaf litter, under rocks and bark, and in other protected places, including buildings. In spring, the adults disperse in search of prey and suitable egg laying sites. This dispersal trait, especially strong in migratory species such as the commercially available convergent lady beetle, affects the reliability of released adult beetles.
To encourage these beneficial insects into your garden, supply them with food and moisture. Small and shallow-faced flowers provide adults easy access to nectar and pollen: Plant alyssum, herbs from the dill and mint families, and flowers from the daisy family.

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ooops..more nasties...

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Tomato Hornworm




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1640a.jpg
Tomato hornworms can grow as large as 5 inches long.
Found throughout the United States, these large, fat caterpillars feed voraciously on the leaves and fruits of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes. Adults are rather spectacular sphinx moths: grayish-brown with orange spots on the body and a 4- to 5-inch wing span. After overwintering in the soil in 2-inch brown spindle-shaped pupal cases, moths emerge in late spring to early summer to lay greenish-yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves. Caterpillars feed for about a month, then enter the soil to pupate. There is one generation per year in the North; two or more in the South.
Control

Use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) when caterpillars are small. Hand-pick and destroy large caterpillars. Don't worry -- caterpillars cannot sting with their "horn."

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Codling Moth




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1594a.jpg
Actual size of codling moth caterpillar: up to 1 inch long.
Codling moth is found everywhere apples are grown, and is one of the major pests of this crop. It attacks pears, apricots, and quinces as well.
Caterpillars bore small holes in the fruit, usually at or near the blossom end. Inside, the pinkish-white worms with brown heads feed on the flesh, leaving tunnels full of sawdustlike frass (droppings). Infested fruit often drops prematurely from trees.
Codling moth larvae overwinter in cocoons under loose bark on the trunk or under debris on the ground. In midspring they pupate, emerging in late spring as grayish-brown moths. The females lay eggs on leaves, twigs, and fruits. The larvae feed briefly on the leaves before tunneling into the fruits. After feeding for 3 to 5 weeks, they emerge and crawl down the trunk in search of a spot to pupate. There can be up to three generations per year.
Control

Spray with the bioinsecticide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). You will need to apply Bt at least three times, and timing is critical. Make the first spray 15 days after petal fall begins, and subsequently at 5-day intervals. Note when petal fall begins and mark the spray days on a calendar. Orchardists use sticky traps baited with codling moth pheromone in order to time sprays exactly.
Parasitic wasps will attack the caterpillars as they hatch, and are commercially available if there's no natural population.
Rake leaves and dropped fruit through the growing season and in autumn after all leaves have fallen.

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Cabbageworm




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1593a.jpg
Cabbageworms can reach up to 1-1/2 inches long.
Found throughout the U.S., the cabbageworm is the larva of a common white butterfly with three to four black spots on its wings. The damage done by these caterpillars is similar to that of the cabbage looper -- the pests chew large, ragged holes in the leaves of cabbages, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, and may bore into the heads, leaving trails of dark green frass (droppings). There are several generations per year.
Control

Use a lightweight row cover in early spring as a barrier to egg-laying butterflies. Spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), especially when catepillars are small. Be sure to direct spray to undersides of leaves.

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Cabbage Looper




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1592a.jpg
Cabbage loopers can grow to 1-1/4" long.
Every region of North America hosts some form of cabbage looper. The caterpillar doesn't have legs in the middle of its body so moves like an inchworm, with a "looping" motion. The larvae of a gray, night-flying moth, the looper chews ragged holes in the leaves of cabbages, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower. Later in the season, it bores into developing heads. There may be several generations per year.
Control

Use a lightweight row cover in early spring as a barrier to egg-laying moths. Spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which is most effective when catepillars are small. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves where young caterpillars prefer to feed.

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Corn Earworm




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1595a.jpg
Corn earworms can grow to 1-1/2" long.
This pest is common throughout North America. The adult is an inch-long tan moth that lays yellow eggs on leaf undersides in the spring. The caterpillar larva has alternating light and dark stripes that may be green, pink, or brown. This first generation of caterpillars feeds on the leaves. Eggs of later generations are laid on corn silk; the emerging caterpillars feed on the silk and the kernels at the tip of the ear just inside the husk. In some cases this same caterpillar feeds on a variety of plants and hence has many common names: tomato fruitworm, cotton bollworm, geranium budworm. It also is know to feed on beans, peas, peppers, potatoes, and squash.
Control

Squirt half a medicine dropper of mineral oil into the tip of each ear of corn after the silks have wilted and have begun turn brown (applying oil earlier may interfere with pollination). Plow the garden in fall to kill overwintering pupae. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) before caterpillars enter ears or fruits. Cultivate the soil between crops to destroy pupae.
Photography by USDA

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Pickleworm




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1628a.jpg
Pickleworms grow to about 3/4-inch long.
This caterpillar is mainly a problem in the southeastern United States. It feeds on the blossoms, stems, and developing fruits of summer squash, and occasionally cucumbers and muskmelons. The adult moths emerge in spring after overwintering as pupae in semitropical areas such as southern Florida. They migrate northward to lay eggs on leaves, buds, stems, and fruits of susceptible plants. There may be four or more generations per year depending on the climate.
Control

After harvest, pull up and destroy vines, leftover fruits, and nearby weeds, all of which serve as overwintering sites for the insect. Plant as early as possible in order to harvest crops before late summer when damage is usually greatest. Spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) in late spring.

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Colorado Potato Beetle


http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1630a.jpg
Adult Colorado potato beetles have distinctive stripes and can reach 1/3" long.
The Colorado potato beetle is a plump yellow beetle with black stripes over its wings and black spots just behind its head. The humpbacked larva is red with a row of black spots along each side. Both feed on potatoes, eggplants, ground cherries, peppers, tomatoes, and tomatillos.
Colorado potato beetles prefer cold winters. They range across most of the United States but are most common in the east. Adult beetles overwinter in the soil, emerging in the spring to lay clusters of yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves. Depending on the climate, there can be up to three generations per year.
Control

A thick organic mulch makes it hard for emerging beetles to reach plants in spring. Surveillance and hand picking remain among the gardener's best defenses. Knock any beetles and larvae you find into a can of soapy water to dispose of them. Natural enemies include birds, spined soldier bugs, and parasitic nematodes. Spray Bacillus thuringiensis tenebrionis (also known as Bt San Diego) while larvae are small to manage major outbreaks.

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Cucumber Beetle




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1597a.jpg
A striped cucumber beetle. Both striped and spotted cucumber beetles are yellow or yellow-green and 1/4" to 1/2" long.
There are two forms of cucumber beetle -- one striped and the other sporting a dozen black spots. Cucumber beetles are pests of far more plants than their name indicates. In addition to cucumbers and their relatives (squashes, gourds, and melons), these beetles are known to feed on beans, peas, corn and blossoms of several wild and cultivated plants. The spotted cucumber beetle feeds on an even wider array of cultivated plants, adding potatoes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, and cabbage to its menu. The larva of the spotted cucumber beetle is also known as the southern corn rootworm. In addition to corn roots, it infests peanuts, small grains and many wild grasses. You may find them feasting on your roses and dahlias, as well.
Cucumber beetles are more dangerous to their cucumber-family hosts than many pests, because they transmit deadly diseases -- mosaic and bacterial wilts.
The adults overwinter in weeds and plant debris. They emerge in spring after the last frost and enter gardens once the growing season is underway. You may first notice them inside squash flowers. They lay orange eggs at the base of host plants; white larva with legs and brown heads emerge to chew on roots. Short northern seasons allow just one generation a year, but in the South and milder parts of the West, two or more generations are typical.
Control

Look for varieties of cucumbers and squash that are resistant to these pests. Cover young plants with floating row covers. Knock, shake, or hand pick beetles off plants and out of flowers, and clean up garden debris in the fall to reduce the number of overwintering adults. Dust plants and flowers with insecticides containing pyrethrum.

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Curculio




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1599a.jpg
Adult curculios reach 1/4" in length.
Also known as plum curculio, this beetle with the long, curved snout is a common pest of apples, peaches, cherries, apricots, pears, and plums. It is found east of the Rocky Mountains and primarily in the north.
Curculios are diminutive, so they're not easy to spot. You're more likely to see the damage they cause. Initially they make small, circular scars in the skins of developing apples and pears under which they lay eggs. After hatching, the larvae tunnel into the fruits leaving browned and mishapen fruits. Trees often drop the damaged fruit prematurely.
Adult beetles spend the winter hiding among fallen leaves and garden debris. They become active just about the time apples bloom, and that's the most important time to take preventative action.
Prevention and Control

There is no trap or botanical insecticide that will control curculio. You can take advantage of the insect's habit of playing dead when surprised. Each morning for three weeks after petal fall, spread sheets under your fruit trees. Shake or jar the tree, and the beetles will fall onto the sheets where you can collect and dispose of them.
Pick up and destroy all fruit that falls to the ground. This step alone will diminish a curculio population substantially.
Some gardeners use the organophosphate insecticide phosmet (Imidan) to control curculio. Compared to other organophosphate insecticides it does not persist long in the environment. However, it is toxic to honeybees -- do not use it when pollinators are active.

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Japanese Beetle




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1621a.jpg
Iridescent Japanese beetles might be considered pretty if they weren't so destructive. Adults are about 1/2" long.
Japanese beetles are primarily a pest in the eastern U.S., though they turn up west of the Rockies from time to time. Their appetite for a wide variety of plants makes them especially troublesome. Adults feed on just about every kind of ornamental and edible crop, sometimes in disturbingly large crowds. They chew leaf tissue from between the veins, leaving a lacy skeleton. Prior to pupating, the 1-inch-long, white, c-shaped grubs live in the soil and feed on the roots of many plants. Grubs are often a problem in lawns.
Controls

Japanese beetles are easy to see and are fairly easy to knock into a can of soapy water.
Yellow target traps baited with a pheromone attractant work, but sometimes too well. Don't place one near your garden or you'll be pulling beetles in from all over town.
Deter feeding by adult beetles by spraying plants with neem oil. Use parasitic nematodes in lawns and garden beds for grub control.

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Mexican Bean Beetle




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1625a.jpg
The adult Mexican bean beetle is 1/4" long and features sixteen black spots.
Given its size and spots, you might mistake this pest for a ladybug. Though related to ladybugs, Mexican bean beetles are far from beneficial. Their distinctive bronze background color gives away their identity. Mexican bean beetles are fairly common in the United States, but are most prominent in the southeast and rarest in the northwest. Gardeners east of the Rockies are most familiar with this pest.
The adult beetle features sixteen black spots on its back. Larvae are fat, hump-backed spiny yellow grubs about 1/3 inch long. Both adults and larvae feed on foliage, leaving a skeleton of veins.
Adults overwinter on plant debris, emerging in late spring or early summer to lay clusters of yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves. There are one to four generations per year depending on the climate.
Control

Use floating row covers over seedlings to prevent egg laying. Check leaf undersides for masses of yellowish eggs, and squish any you spot. Hand-pick adult beetles and larvae. Neem oil will deter feeding adults; horticultural oil and insecticidal soap are useful against the larvae. Pedio wasps (Pediobius faveolatus) parasitize adult bean beetles. Toads, birds, and spined soldier bugs are general predators. Clean up plant debris in the garden at the end of the season to reduce the number of overwintering adults. Where these beetles are a severe problem, look for varieties of beans that are naturally resistant.

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Flea Beetle




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1613a.jpg
Flea beetles are tiny, but their distinctive habit of leaping out of harm's way makes them easy to identify.
These tiny beetles earn their name by jumping like fleas when disturbed. There are many pest species with varying markings and colorations. The blue-black flea beetle shown here is most common.
All flea beetles prefer hot, dry conditions. They cause damage by chewing tiny holes in the leaves of vegetables such as eggplant and cole crops. Seedlings are most succeptible to damage. The beetles can spread diseases such as early blight to potatoes or bacterial wilt to corn. Flea beetle larvae feed on roots of many plants. In the southwest, flea beetles are a major pest of dichondra lawns. Adults overwinter in the soil and on garden debris, emerging in early spring.
Prevention and Control

Eliminate overwintering sites by removing plant debris and similar hiding places in the fall. In dry climates, keep garden beds moist, making them less attractive to egg-laying adults. Cultivate soil frequently. Add parasitic nematodes to the soil to attack the larvae. Spray infested plants with insecticidal soap to reduce damage by the beetles.

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Squash Vine Borer




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1635a.jpg
Typical signs of squash vine borer infestation.
Squash vine borers are pests of crops east of the Rockies. The adult is a moth that lays its eggs on the stems near the base of the plant in late spring to early summer. Fat, white caterpillars with brown heads hatch out and tunnel into the stems to feed, causing sudden wilting of all or part of a squash vine. If you cut open the stem of the wilted vine lengthwise, you'll find it filled with sawdustlike frass (droppings) and one or more caterpillars. The borer prefers squashes but will occasionally infest cucumbers and melons as well. In the Deep South there can be two generations per year; in the North, only one.
Prevention and Control

Slit open wilted vines and remove borers, then cover the cut with moist soil to encourage the vine to reroot. Remove vines as soon as the growing season is over to interrupt the life cycle of second generation larvae. If borers are historically a problem in your garden, place a shovelful of soil at one or more locations along the vines to encourage more roots to develop. If a borer does infest the vine, these additional roots can help the plant survive and produce a crop.

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European Corn Borer




http://www.garden.org/images/App/articles/1608a.jpg
This corn borer inside a stalk is about 1-1/4" long.
This pest is common throughout the northern and eastern sections of the United States, as far west as Montana and as far south as northern Arkansas. Caterpillars overwintering in cornstalks and similar hiding places pupate in spring. Adult moths first appear in late spring and deposit clusters of white eggs on the undersides of leaves. The pinkish larvae that emerge feed on leaves and tassels. A "shot-hole" in leaves is a familiar sign of their presence. As caterpillars mature, they bore into main stalks and leave behind sawdust-filled holes. In addition to corn, they will also feed on tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers.
Prevention and Control

Remove or plow under old stalks after harvest. If borers have been a problem in the past, treat emerging ears and leaves with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) when the silk has partially emerged.

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well..that's a start. :D

[milagro]

with just the insects we know about, this could be a helpful tool.




I knew about thrips and springtails cause they've invaded my grow.

Zoomy, I'm never stepping foot into your grow room. :laugh:

What a compilation! A Zooomopedia on insects an other assorted arthropods! Well done maestro! :D

sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky sticky.

<edit> is that the same earwig as the one on The Twilight Zone?


milagro

[Cranky]

there yas go...dredanks made it as sticky iky as it gets....all he has do do know is wipe off the excess:p

cranky

[buzzmobile]

Hahahahaha! Zoomy's been into the Entomology book. :D

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hahaha..yea guys..I'm gonna have mitemares for a month!!:eek:

[CB]

server has been lag'n all day like and now i know why :p

thanks for take'n the time to post all that up bro

alot of great info indeed 2thumbs

Bug on brother :D

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haha..oops..sorry, cb :cool:..but it was kinda' fun going back into the turbo-posting mode.:D

:smoke1: wow!!...'delete' gets rid of all these sumsa beaches!

[Fillabong]

Not sure what this is yet. I thought it was a potato bug but turns out it isn't.

Any ideas?

http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1761&stc=1&d=1139107945

[buzzmobile]

It's a fuzzy bug. They survive by living out of focus.:D I can't tell what it is.

From its shield shaped body it may be a stink bug.

Stink bug nymphs. (http://images.google.com/images?q=stink+bug+nymphs&hl=en&btnG=Search+Images)

[dredank]

i found this in my greenhouse on top of the soil, it moves the pointy part, i think its the head around when you agitate it like roll it around or whaver, moves its head in cirlces like some kind of robot if you just push down on its body a bit, its pretty fun.:D

But what the hell is it?!
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2899&stc=1&d=1143324832

http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2900&stc=1&d=1143324849
:peace:

[Mel]

a Chrysalis

http://www.infovisual.info/02/img_en/048%20Morphology%20of%20a%20chrysalis.jpg

[CB]

a Chrysalis



thats what i thought.....

you can see the wing in the second pic

put it back where ya found it and watch ;)

[Mel]

moth would be my guess
it'd be really cool if it were a luna or one of those big ones that have the spots that look like eyes

[dredank]

Thanks MEL:D

when i touched it it moved its "cremaster" in circles like a robotic arm or somthin, wierd creature.

i found it on the top of the soil in my greenhouse, i dont really want it there so i put it in the corner of my yard behind a citrus tree on a mound of dirt with like a 1cm layer of dirt of it.

:peace:

[Fing_57]

don't BUG ME :p

[reubeni]

Is this a terorist shall I kill it:eek:

[Greenmachine]

I'm going for a wasp grub. (Dredanks chrysalis)

[WilliamClarkeQuantrill]

Looks like a stink bug to me, squash it. :smokin: