View Full Version : Do I have a fungus?
drumin
07-30-2007, 08:16 AM
Can anyone tell me what is happening to these girls? They are (obviously) Sativa, growing outdoors. It's been very humid lately so I'm wondering if it's a fungus...
How wet is the soil? Do you have em in a bucket or in the ground. sorry to ask, didn't see in the pics.
gorilla
07-30-2007, 08:39 AM
I see soggy brown leaves. Looks like dead leaves got too wet. Or, leaves died because they were too wet. I would say that they need to dry out. I see yellow leaves too, so maybe your leaves died from hunger.
hard to tell, wait for a better answer. :D
drumin
07-30-2007, 01:26 PM
They are in the ground and only 2 out of 4 are having this problem. The problem looks to be effecting the upper part of the plant and not the lower. It has been raining and humid when not raining.
say drumin,
weather has been shit here as well.... no summer yet really
out door crops are take'n a beating bad here with mass rain and high RH
lots of mold and mildew as well as fungus type things :mad:
clip the bad crap off and hope for dryer weather..... bout all you can do really
peace
:pass:
Fing_57
07-30-2007, 11:26 PM
too wet :(
drumin
07-31-2007, 08:19 AM
Thanks guys, that's what I kinda thought. Can I do anything to help it along?
did you see any white powder type stuff on the leafs?
Don't use any fungicide that's not approved for use on something that is consumed by humans. Many of the fungicides that treat powdery mildew are only approved for use on ornamentals.
Cranky
07-31-2007, 01:07 PM
try this (http://www.marshalls-seeds.co.uk/?PAGEID=20670&STK_PROD_CODE=1090-4039&CTL_CAT_CODE=M11000)
cranky
drumin
08-01-2007, 08:25 AM
Doesn't look like powdery mildew... I think they are just too wet from all the rain and humidity. *crossing fingers* :shake:
Doesn't look like powdery mildew... I think they are just too wet from all the rain and humidity. *crossing fingers* :shake:
If the plants our in your yard might try a fan on them to get some air movement to aid in drying them out some :)
probly not in the yard tho :rolleyes:
Sticky_Budz
08-01-2007, 12:52 PM
just a quick question how much sun do the two that are bad get when it isn't raining? do they get sun all day? or just part? was thinking that they might be in to shady of an area to where they aren't even getting the UV rays. but anyways good luck hope they get better:D
drumin
08-01-2007, 02:04 PM
They don't get full sun all day... most of the day. I opened up the area around them a little more to let the ground dry a little faster.
Cheapo, fans? :halol:
drumin
08-03-2007, 10:50 AM
I'm not so sure of my original assessment now. Here are some new pictures that I hope will shed some new light. It looks like the upper leaves on the plant are curling up and dieing from the tip of the leaf inward... :shrug:
It looks like the upper leaves on the plant are curling up and dieing from the tip of the leaf inward... :shrug:
thats classic sings of Magnesium (Mg) deficiency: :)
drumin
08-06-2007, 09:44 AM
What's a good source for MG? Also, why do you think they could get mg deficient outside?
What's a good source for MG? Also, why do you think they could get mg deficient outside?
1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water
it looks like the upper leaves on the plant are curling up and dieing from the tip of the leaf inward.
check the plant abuse section in the OG faq (http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/ogfaq/growfaq/97.html) almost like you quoted it :D
as for why outdoor..... ph might be out of range in the soil
how they look'n ? any worse
grow on
drumin
08-13-2007, 10:09 AM
Not lookin too good. I have 6 Sativa plants out there, 4 Durban Poison and 2 Skunk #1 x South African. 2 of the DP and 1 of the S1xSA are having this problem. All 6 are within about 10 of each other. 2 of the DP are now almost completely dead on top... :(
I gave them some of the epsom salts and it didn't seem to help.
damn drumin this sucks :mad:
have you treated for fungus ? not sure WTF is up but it's late in the season thats for sure.....
can you update the pics? like whole plant (if you can...they look tall) and some close up as well
I have poured over the faq and will do some more tonight :)
also have you posted this up on some of the bigger forums? and if so what was the input?
peace
:pass:
WilliamClarkeQuantrill
08-13-2007, 05:31 PM
Looks more like potassium def to me. i don't see any mold or anything, but you should remove all dead and dieing veg matter to prevent it from getting started for sure. feed them with a good all encompassing fertilizer and see how it goes.
drumin
08-14-2007, 10:50 AM
I use Peter's 20-20-20 on them in a light dose so maybe I'll give them a stronger shot. I'll update the pics in a bit.
I haven't posted on any other forum, mostly because I don't visit any other forum :D
drumin
08-14-2007, 11:43 AM
Here are some pics... I wish my camera were better on close-ups. The plants are 12+ feet tall.
Sticky_Budz
08-14-2007, 07:54 PM
hey bro looks like things are getting pretty bad here have u checked the plant real close to see if the was some kind of bug eating away at that plant use a magnifier glass and really inspect it i say this because the bug could be the color of your plant one inch worm could do some damage like that. also have you dug in the ground near your plant to see how wet it is? may be dry at the top but five inches down could be soaked. I dont know I'm rambling but trying to help good luck bro. hope we figure this out peace
WilliamClarkeQuantrill
08-15-2007, 05:49 PM
oh wow, I didn't realize it was so pronounced at the top of the plant instead of the bottom of the plant. Scratch the potassium def in favor of calcium def. Look into getting some tomato blossom end rot stop for calcium. Are the roots soggy?
Definitly remove all dead vegetative material.
drumin
08-16-2007, 03:05 PM
oh wow, I didn't realize it was so pronounced at the top of the plant instead of the bottom of the plant. Scratch the potassium def in favor of calcium def. Look into getting some tomato blossom end rot stop for calcium. Are the roots soggy?
Definitly remove all dead vegetative material.
I don't think the roots are "soggy" but it had been raining and humid however the last week or so has just been hot and humid.
Someone at the local agro store mentioned a possible zinc deficiency and suggested copper sulfate...
Tomato blossom end rot stop, is that the name of a particular product? Is this what you think is going on a calcium def causing end rot?
Someone at the local agro store mentioned a possible zinc deficiency and suggested copper sulfate...
Tomato blossom end rot stop, is that the name of a particular product? Is this what you think is going on a calcium def causing end rot?
think it would be zinc Toxicity and not lack of....
end blossom rot is brought on by over water'n ,lac of calcium,wet plants at night,high RH
I never have had this with MJ but i do battle it in my veggie garden and use cal-mag and lime...GH FLORAMATO DRY works good to and have used in the past on veggies in need of calcium
kinda gotta a hunch Q is on the right track (thx for stop'n in when I asked) and I would be trim'n it back it hopes to save as much as you can as the dead stuff wont come back...
hope this helps some bro
peace
drumin
08-16-2007, 06:38 PM
Well, I'll get some of that floramato and see what's what. Thanks mang!
Well, I'll get some of that floramato and see what's what. Thanks mang!
never tried it on MJ bro like i said..... if ya want to stay organic try dolomitic lime to correct ph issues or check out the peace of mind seabird guano's ;)
drumin
08-17-2007, 09:52 AM
frankly, I don't care whether the cure is organic or not as long as it works. Whatever it is it's gonna ruin these plants and I've already let it go too long hoping it would correct itself.
If you and WCQ think it's a cal-mg deficiency then I want to get the best thing to work the quickest! If you think it's the Floramato Dry is my best bet first then I'm gonna get it.
I don't understand how this could have happened. Out door plants don't usually get mineral defs unless something causes a lock up (I guess indoor would be the same). maybe a PH swing between rain water and house water?
frankly, I don't care whether the cure is organic or not as long as it works. Whatever it is it's gonna ruin these plants and I've already let it go too long hoping it would correct itself.
If you and WCQ think it's a cal-mg deficiency then I want to get the best thing to work the quickest! If you think it's the Floramato Dry is my best bet first then I'm gonna get it.
I don't understand how this could have happened. Out door plants don't usually get mineral defs unless something causes a lock up (I guess indoor would be the same). maybe a PH swing between rain water and house water?
excess rain can leach your soil and lower the PH :)
as far as whats best to use I dont know as i just gave a few things that have worked for me in the past and what I'm doing this year on veggies (zuc's and yellow squash)
the floramato stoped it dead in its tracks on my hydro mato's but I only used it on the mato's...
think i would try the calmag first and see if that stops it
have you cut back all the dead stuff yet?
peace
drumin
08-23-2007, 02:12 PM
Well, here we are again. I got the "stop root rot" stuff you recommended and before I could put it on, the guy at the agro store did a no-no (as far as his boss is concerned) and looked at the pics on line.
So he says Calcium is one of 5 macro elements and that a CAL deficiency would start at the bottom. Macros affect from the bottom up and micro start on top. That's why the first time I talked to him he mentioned Zinc... Zinc = micro = top of plant.
He thinks it's actually a fungus or a blight. We do have a problem with fire blight and shot-hole fungus. He recommended a spray consisting of copper sulfate and hydrated lime which he says will knock it out faster than anything. My wife says she's been having problems with fungus on her perennials too and our 2 cherry trees have a fungus too... I'm so confused.
This page has some info on it -> http://www.copper.org/applications/compounds/copper_sulfate02.html
Any thoughts?
Sticky_Budz
08-23-2007, 08:16 PM
Well, here we are again. I got the "stop root rot" stuff you recommended and before I could put it on, the guy at the agro store did a no-no (as far as his boss is concerned) and looked at the pics on line.
So he says Calcium is one of 5 macro elements and that a CAL deficiency would start at the bottom. Macros affect from the bottom up and micro start on top. That's why the first time I talked to him he mentioned Zinc... Zinc = micro = top of plant.
He thinks it's actually a fungus or a blight. We do have a problem with fire blight and shot-hole fungus. He recommended a spray consisting of copper sulfate and hydrated lime which he says will knock it out faster than anything. My wife says she's been having problems with fungus on her perennials too and our 2 cherry trees have a fungus too... I'm so confused.
This page has some info on it -> http://www.copper.org/applications/compounds/copper_sulfate02.html
Any thoughts?well i would say that if this guy knows what this is and has dealt with it before than u might be on the right track did he say this was safe to use on your MJ plants or on veggies and fruits if so than i would give it a shot especially if its on other plants good luck my friend hope this solves your problems peace
WilliamClarkeQuantrill
08-23-2007, 09:18 PM
I don't think fire blight effects cannabis, it is pretty specific to fruit trees and roses.
Shot hole fungus fits its name very well, and I see no shot holes in your leaves.
If it is a fungus, then it is late blight. Common on tomatos. The only fungicides that are effective against late blight are protectant materials, which means that they must be on the foliage before spores land on leaves that are wet from rain, irrigation, fog, or dew. Therefore, continuous fungicide coverage is necessary to protect plants from infection. Tomatoes and potatoes are susceptible to late blight at any time during the growing season. Choose a fungicide that has maneb, mancozeb, chlorothalonil, or fixed copper as an active ingredient AND has tomato and potato late blight on the label.
Calcium is a plant/phloem immoble nutrient. Deficiency of calcium always shows up at the top of the plant or in the flower and fruits of plants. It causes growing shoot tips to die in extreme deficient cases. Here is what it looks like when you drown a pot plant and cause calcium deficiency.
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6946&d=1164239962
Google image search any and all to see for yourself what they all look like on other plants.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.avrdc.org/photos/tomato_diseases/late_blight_02.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.avrdc.org/photos/tomato_diseases/index.html&h=605&w=907&sz=112&hl=en&start=73&um=1&tbnid=BXVlrar9ADfLEM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=147&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlate%2Bblight%26start%3D72%26ndsp%3D1 8%26svnum%3D10%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dnetsc ape-pp%26rls%3Dcom.netscape:en-US%26sa%3DN
StoninStanley
08-24-2007, 05:29 AM
Well, here we are again. I got the "stop root rot" stuff you recommended and before I could put it on, the guy at the agro store did a no-no (as far as his boss is concerned) and looked at the pics on line.
So he says Calcium is one of 5 macro elements and that a CAL deficiency would start at the bottom. Macros affect from the bottom up and micro start on top. That's why the first time I talked to him he mentioned Zinc... Zinc = micro = top of plant.
He thinks it's actually a fungus or a blight. We do have a problem with fire blight and shot-hole fungus. He recommended a spray consisting of copper sulfate and hydrated lime which he says will knock it out faster than anything. My wife says she's been having problems with fungus on her perennials too and our 2 cherry trees have a fungus too... I'm so confused.
This page has some info on it -> http://www.copper.org/applications/compounds/copper_sulfate02.html
Any thoughts?
dont you hate it when employees at stores try and "help" you when shopping for your grow? lol
gorilla
08-24-2007, 08:55 AM
dont you hate it when employees at stores try and "help" you when shopping for your grow? lol
i hear ya. hate it when i've got an idea in mind that i feel strongly about, and get dissed at the hydro store about it. like, leave me alone... i'm paying outrageous prices for your shit let me pick what i want, and have the right answer when i ask. :p
drumin
08-24-2007, 09:47 AM
OK, here is a few pics of the leaves up close. I gotta get going on this so I hope these pics might be the nail...
Shadows
08-24-2007, 10:07 AM
Drumin, man I've gone all through your pictures here and only can come up with this.
K:ca:mg should be approx 3:2:1. If one of those is out of balance, too greatly, it will affect the uptake of the others.
Looking at the Pics, I see lots of -Ca up top and some -K leaf burns as well. Theres even what appears to be a -Mg on the lower leaves (intervenial chlorosis), since Mg is mobile it would show there first...
Anyway, with all that as issues, to me, its either 1 of 2 things
1- you are generally under feeding the plants. Get the end rot stuff, use it regular at 1/4-1/2tsp per gallon each feeding. Alternate adding Mg every other at 1/2 tsp per gallon.
2- its in the roots. Dig up the soil around the plant and see what the roots look like. WTF right? well the plant is already hurting, some times it takes surgery to find the cure. So pull a plug and take a big whiff of it.
PH could be another issue, but IMO if PH is an issue outdoors its a problem of how the soil was mixed from the get go, or theres such a root rot problem that its affecting PH around the roots.
I'd check the soil/roots first and see how it lookes/smells and go from there.
drumin
08-25-2007, 02:00 PM
Well I dug up one of the Durbin Poison that was the worse off and the roots were dry and looked and smelled just fine. It wasn't rooted as deep as I expected it to be for an 8 foot plant but all looked well.
Should I still go for the end rot stop stuff or get some Cal-mag or both?
hey bro,
straight up if those where my girls they would have got cal-mag long long ago:)
if that didnt slow it down then i would have hit them with some end blossom rot stop
I would follow shadow's feed schedule(1.) starting like yesterday ;)
peace
Shadows
08-27-2007, 02:27 PM
Well I dug up one of the Durbin Poison that was the worse off and the roots were dry and looked and smelled just fine. It wasn't rooted as deep as I expected it to be for an 8 foot plant but all looked well.
Should I still go for the end rot stop stuff or get some Cal-mag or both?
Roots? were there lots? If its a huge plant and they're not expanding into the soil around it, sounds like the issue is there. Acting root bound. Of it is real clay like soil, that too is going to affect the growth and nutrient uptake. Try breaking up the soil some,and/or topping with some compost. (just to have a good steady source of nutrients at the base of the plant)
I'd say if you're getting the Cal-mag you should be ok to not get the end rot.
drumin
08-30-2007, 10:45 AM
The soil is pretty loose and the only soil I added is what went with the plants into the hole during transplanting (FoxFarms Ocean Forest). It's the same spot I grew in last year.
I've given 2 doses of CAL-MAG and 2 feedings. I can't really tell yet but I think (prolly just hoping) that the problem is not progressing. So I'm crossing my fingers.
I can't really tell yet but I think (prolly just hoping) that the problem is not progressing. So I'm crossing my fingers.
hey bro this wont be a rapid fix or undo any of the damage thats been done. Lets hope your right and it has slowed down or stopped progressing :)
maybe do a side by side pic of before the cal-mag and now of the same plant so we can look with you ;)
grow on
:pass:
how the plants make out bro? been wondering for awhile like :)
bout chop time aye :D