View Full Version : Help with ballast please
1k hps sun system 3 years old
last night I pluged a new high output bulb in and all fired up perfect, after 5 hours still ok.
check today and lamp is out but ballast is warm and hum'n away like norm so I changed bulbs back but it wont fire. both work on the other 1k no prob.
I need to know how to start check'n to find the problem with this and power is not my best subject and i hate to get shocked.
kinda in a hurry to get this up again as I have over 250 plants in veg and need the light :)
so far all I have done is unplug it.
thx
eyeseaire
04-11-2007, 03:07 PM
is it the type with the on/off switch? I experienced something similar (buzzing but no light), I took it to the dealer, and since it was under warranty they fixed it. This same problem occured again, and when I took it back again they switched the on/off switch out for a direct plug to the wall, or what have you. Apparently this switch burns out in the sun system easily, and they are phasing it out of a lot of thier models. This is what I was told. Yes mine was a sun sytem too.
eyeseaire
04-11-2007, 03:09 PM
sorry i have no do it youself tips, i hope your close to a sun system dealer. If you are they are usually easy people to work with, in regards to fixing you system. Around here they set you up with a loner ballast, while yours is being fixed, as its sent to the factory.
is it the type with the on/off switch?
no switch on this one, strait plug to the outlet
arnold layne
04-11-2007, 03:18 PM
say bro-
i would think that it might be a capacitor.
if the bulb was lit and just went out (as in the middle of a light cycle), i would think it could only be your cap or coil.
checking both require a meter, and checking the coil requires a knowledge of what it's proper output would be to test it.
i would think that the easiest way to go about it without a meter, would e to remove the capacitor and take it to an electronics shop to get tested.
the tricky part of handling a capacitor is to discharge it before ya handle it.
here is some info on that:
Capacitor Discharge Technique
The technique I recommend is to use a high wattage resistor of about 5 to 50 ohms/V of the working voltage of the capacitor. This isn't critical - a bit more or less will be fine but will affect the time it takes to fully discharge the capacitor. The use of a current limiting resistor will prevent the arc-welding associated with screwdriver discharge but will have a short enough time constant so that the capacitor will drop to a low voltage in at most a few seconds (dependent of course on the RC time constant and its original voltage).
Then check with a voltmeter to be double sure. Better yet, monitor while discharging (monitoring is not needed for the CRT - discharge is nearly instantaneous even with multi-M ohm resistor).
Obviously, make sure that you are well insulated!
For the main capacitors in a switching power supply, TV, or monitor, which might be 400 uF at 350 V, a 2 K ohm 25 W resistor would be suitable. RC=.8 second. 5RC=4 seconds. A lower wattage resistor (compared to that calculated from V^^2 / R) can be used since the total energy stored in the capacitor is not that great.
For the CRT, use a high wattage (not for power but to hold off the high voltage which could jump across a tiny 1/4 watt job) resistor of a 1 to 10 M ohms discharged to the chassis ground connected to the outside of the CRT - NOT SIGNAL GROUND ON THE MAIN BOARD as you may damage sensitive circuitry. The time constant is very short - a ms or so. However, repeat a few times to be sure. (Using a shorting clip lead may not be a bad idea as well while working on the equipment - there have been too many stories of painful experiences from charge developing for whatever reasons ready to bite when the HV lead is reconnected.) Note that if you are touching the little board on the neck of the CRT, you may want to discharge the HV even if you are not disconnecting the fat red wire - the focus and screen (G2) voltages on that board are derived from the CRT HV.
For the high voltage capacitor in a microwave oven, use a 100 K ohm 25 W (or larger resistor with a clip lead to the metal chassis. The reason to use a large (high wattage) resistor is again not so much power dissipation as voltage holdoff. You don't want the HV zapping across the terminals of the resistor.
Clip the ground wire to an unpainted spot on the chassis. Use the discharge probe on each side of the capacitor in turn for a second or two. Since the time constant RC is about 0.1 second, this should drain the charge quickly and safely.
Then, confirm with a WELL INSULATED screwdriver across the capacitor terminals. If there is a big spark, you will know that somehow, your original attempt was less than entirely successful. At least there will be no danger.
then i'd remove it and take it to an electronics shop to be tested.
you can test a cap yourself with a digital multimeter, but they dont test anywhere near the working voltage of the capacitor.
if your cap is fine, and the lights were on for the duration of the cycle, but failed to fire at the next "lights on", i would guess it's your ignitor.
since the parts aren't cheap, i would probably open up your good ballast, discharge the capacitor in that, and try swapping parts between them to find out what the bad part is (as long as they both use the same coil). i would start by taking the ignitor from the good ballast, putting it in the bad one, and trying it out. if it still doesn't work, then put the known good capacitor into the bad ballast (with the known good ignitor already in there as well). if it still doesn't fire, then i'd be guessing that its your coil.
the easiest way to know for sure is to bring it into a shop, but i could understand not wanting to, for security reasons.
if someone with more knowledge of ballasts can suggest something better, listen to them. my technique of parts-swapping works for me, but is, i'm sure, the lame way to do it.
good luck, bro.
peace-
arnold layne
Here (http://sperolighting.net/ballast.html#Open%20Circuit%20Voltage%20Test%20Lim its)
Dooby420
04-11-2007, 04:22 PM
well cant offer any help but i will be watching this thread closely as this has happened to me before as well :mad: :rolleyes:
WilliamClarkeQuantrill
04-11-2007, 05:05 PM
I always just skip to the end of that capacitor discharge tutorial and use a screwdriver to short across the terminals. :smokin:
If you have a 1000 wattregular metal halide, you can try it in the ballast with the suspected bad ignitor. If the mh lights, then it confirms the bad ignitor. Disconnect the power and replace it.
If the MH doesn't light, then we will have to dig deeper.
swapping the parts with a known good ballast is a good technique too.
:smokin:
I always just skip to the end of that capacitor discharge tutorial and use a screwdriver to short across the terminals. :smokin:
If you have a 1000 wattregular metal halide, you can try it in the ballast with the suspected bad ignitor. If the mh lights, then it confirms the bad ignitor. Disconnect the power and replace it.
If the MH doesn't light, then we will have to dig deeper.
swapping the parts with a known good ballast is a good technique too.
:smokin:
thx Q for the icq chat on this :D
I found this LINK (http://sperolighting.net/ballast.html#Open%20Circuit%20Voltage) and went to town sorta :rolleyes: seems my multimeter has retired :mad:
but i do know a bit more about a hps ballast and pretty sure it's one of 2 things?
the igniter makes no nose when fired, Q says it should click :)
and the transformer hums right along
so that leave's the capacitor but since the igniter isnt click'n like it should???
got both those come'n in on loan untill i can sort a kit :D and will test one at a time and see if it will fire up..
thanks all
Dooby420
04-14-2007, 06:51 PM
CB did you ever find out what went wrong with your ballast?
CB did you ever find out what went wrong with your ballast?
not yet mang :) got part's on the way tho to swap and test.... i have a multi meter but seems it has took a dump since last used :mad: so I couldn't test with it like in the links....( thanks pie)
will update on what part was bad as soon as i get the parts (couple days) :D
peace
midwestbluntman
04-14-2007, 07:23 PM
CB them multi meters have a fuse in them.that is usually what goes wrong with them.Its a small round fuse like the older auto's had.
CB them multi meters have a fuse in them.that is usually what goes wrong with them.Its a small round fuse like the older auto's had.
thx bro... i checked it out but the small spring on the needle was all nasty with rust and such.... it's old (10+ years) RIP :)
:pass:
was a shorted out transformer :mad:
sucked that the multi meter took a crap would have been alot faster fix'n the prob :)
alls good now :D
Dooby420
04-21-2007, 08:59 PM
sweet wonder if thats what happened to mine
arnold layne
04-22-2007, 03:39 AM
alls good now :D
right on, bro.
:)
i hate it when equipment fails.
glad it's all workin now.
peace-
arnold layne