rolanterroy
07-10-2006, 10:34 PM
OK then, gonna cover a lot of ground here and I will try to be as succinct as possible hahahaha....
First thing you will want to do, indoors, is move your lights farther away by at least 6" and a whole foot if you are heavily infested. Then you will want to water your plants twice, with straight Reverse Osmosis (R/O) water or distilled water, first time until you see any drainage, then wait about an hour and water again until you see drainage.
The following is a mellow mix and you can go as high as 1 tablespoon of Neem and Soap if your spidermites are particulary hard to kill, or your infestation is massive!
Get a gallon of distilled bottled water, pour about 32 oz into pot on the stove and mince up a few cloves of garlic really small and add them, apply heat, then take about 1 small pinch of crushed red pepper and add it. Boil this for about 15 minutes (simmering-boiling) and then, strain out all the stuff and add the garlic-pepper liquid back into the gallon of distilled water.
Add 1-3 teaspoons of Neem Concentrate and below is my favorite OMRI cert stuff...
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4830&stc=1&d=1152590517
Then add 1-3 teaspoons of Doctor Bronner's Peppermint Hemp Liquid Soap, seen below and available all over the place in health food oriented stores...
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4827&stc=1&d=1152590517
Then shield the soil from drip-off with a paper towel, styrofoam plates, whatever, but if organics this will kill the good micro-organisms in the top layer of soilmix so just guard against that.
Spray the plants up and down, all along the mainstem and undersides of leaves until you see some dripping then stop.
Once it has dried somewhat, you will need these two things (below) Diatomacious Earth and a Makeup brush...
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4828&stc=1&d=1152590517
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4826&stc=1&d=1152590517
Dab the brush into the DEarth, tapping it off lightly so it's not too full of the powder, and the Neem Oil and Soap will have left the plant surfaces a little tacky, dab the DEarth all up and down the mainstem, twirl the brush under leaves, get any axial branches too.
3 days later, repeat the Neem & Garlic spray as above followed by touch-ups to the DEarth on the mainstem mostly.
3 days later same thing, and on the 12th day you will be almost totally mite free, I say almost but it's really totally. Just where I live they are SO DAMN rampant that you need to change clothes and never let anything come into the grow from outside etc to maintain a "sterile" environment.
The DEarth is just microscopic little razor sharp animal skeletons that litterally cut the shit outta any mite that comes into contact with it. So it's absolutely 100% organic and on the 12th day you simply rinse (rain) everything off giving the plants a good cleaning as soon as the lights come on and vwalla! Mites are history bigtime!
OK, part Two.....
Lets say you are into flowering aand you are wicked heavily infested.....
Below you will see a product called End All by Safers, followed by some info on the product and a link with some data on the active insecticide it uses (Pyrethrins 0.5%)
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4829&stc=1&d=1152590517
Pyrethrins
Pyrethrins are natural insecticides produced by certain species of the chrysanthemum plant. The flowers of the plant are harvested shortly after blooming and are either dried and powdered or the oils within the flowers are extracted.
Overall, pyrethrins and pyrethroids are of low chronic toxicity to humans and the most common problems in humans have resulted from the allergenic properties of pyrethrum. Patch tests for allergic reaction are an important tool in determining an individuals sensitivity to these compounds.
Rats and rabbits are not affected by large dermal applications. On broken skin, pyrethrum produces irritation and sensitization, which is further aggravated by sun exposure. Pyrethrin compounds may be used in grain storage and in poultry pens and on dogs and cats to control lice and fleas.
Natural pyrethrins are highly fat soluble, but are easily degraded and thus do not accumulate in the body. These compounds are toxic to bees also.
A Pesticide Information Project of Cooperative Extension Offices of Cornell University, Michigan State University, Oregon State University, and University of California at Davis. Major support and funding was provided by the USDA/Extension Service/National Agricultural Pesticide Impact Assessment Program.
________________________________________
Safer's End-All kills all stages of aphids, mites and whiteflies and stops the life-cycle of insects. This natural pest control can be used up to the day of harvest on fruit trees and vegetables. Does not contain piperonyl butoxide (PBO). Concentrate.
link to purchase:
https://www.veseys.com/store.cfm?product=1905&CFID=9666918&CFTOKEN=32160899
A professor of BioChem that works for the Dept of Agro. told me that this was his number one insectiside choice for as close to a natural without truly being one; due to the nature of this formula, it breaks down rapidly leaving no trace of itself in like 24-36 hours especially with heat and light present. But not before it TOTALLY kills all mites, larva, eggs, everything totally and completely!
This is like your Spidermite Nuke only for serious infested stuff and I find mixing it at a ratio (far less that recommended) works great if need be, I mix it at 5 ml. per quart of distilled water. Often times when I troublshoot peeps med grows I will walk into what looks like a spider domain LoL, and as long as you are at least 10 days (i would recommend just to bve safe) from harvest and you can "rain" on your plants a couple days after application, it seems to be no longer present at all in any plant tissues or anything. Even the rinsing of it is a just in case cuz it breaks down so rapidly and totally.
After you are done with the application(s) you can bring the light back in close again.
- REv :smoke1:
First thing you will want to do, indoors, is move your lights farther away by at least 6" and a whole foot if you are heavily infested. Then you will want to water your plants twice, with straight Reverse Osmosis (R/O) water or distilled water, first time until you see any drainage, then wait about an hour and water again until you see drainage.
The following is a mellow mix and you can go as high as 1 tablespoon of Neem and Soap if your spidermites are particulary hard to kill, or your infestation is massive!
Get a gallon of distilled bottled water, pour about 32 oz into pot on the stove and mince up a few cloves of garlic really small and add them, apply heat, then take about 1 small pinch of crushed red pepper and add it. Boil this for about 15 minutes (simmering-boiling) and then, strain out all the stuff and add the garlic-pepper liquid back into the gallon of distilled water.
Add 1-3 teaspoons of Neem Concentrate and below is my favorite OMRI cert stuff...
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4830&stc=1&d=1152590517
Then add 1-3 teaspoons of Doctor Bronner's Peppermint Hemp Liquid Soap, seen below and available all over the place in health food oriented stores...
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4827&stc=1&d=1152590517
Then shield the soil from drip-off with a paper towel, styrofoam plates, whatever, but if organics this will kill the good micro-organisms in the top layer of soilmix so just guard against that.
Spray the plants up and down, all along the mainstem and undersides of leaves until you see some dripping then stop.
Once it has dried somewhat, you will need these two things (below) Diatomacious Earth and a Makeup brush...
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4828&stc=1&d=1152590517
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4826&stc=1&d=1152590517
Dab the brush into the DEarth, tapping it off lightly so it's not too full of the powder, and the Neem Oil and Soap will have left the plant surfaces a little tacky, dab the DEarth all up and down the mainstem, twirl the brush under leaves, get any axial branches too.
3 days later, repeat the Neem & Garlic spray as above followed by touch-ups to the DEarth on the mainstem mostly.
3 days later same thing, and on the 12th day you will be almost totally mite free, I say almost but it's really totally. Just where I live they are SO DAMN rampant that you need to change clothes and never let anything come into the grow from outside etc to maintain a "sterile" environment.
The DEarth is just microscopic little razor sharp animal skeletons that litterally cut the shit outta any mite that comes into contact with it. So it's absolutely 100% organic and on the 12th day you simply rinse (rain) everything off giving the plants a good cleaning as soon as the lights come on and vwalla! Mites are history bigtime!
OK, part Two.....
Lets say you are into flowering aand you are wicked heavily infested.....
Below you will see a product called End All by Safers, followed by some info on the product and a link with some data on the active insecticide it uses (Pyrethrins 0.5%)
http://www.homegrownbud.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4829&stc=1&d=1152590517
Pyrethrins
Pyrethrins are natural insecticides produced by certain species of the chrysanthemum plant. The flowers of the plant are harvested shortly after blooming and are either dried and powdered or the oils within the flowers are extracted.
Overall, pyrethrins and pyrethroids are of low chronic toxicity to humans and the most common problems in humans have resulted from the allergenic properties of pyrethrum. Patch tests for allergic reaction are an important tool in determining an individuals sensitivity to these compounds.
Rats and rabbits are not affected by large dermal applications. On broken skin, pyrethrum produces irritation and sensitization, which is further aggravated by sun exposure. Pyrethrin compounds may be used in grain storage and in poultry pens and on dogs and cats to control lice and fleas.
Natural pyrethrins are highly fat soluble, but are easily degraded and thus do not accumulate in the body. These compounds are toxic to bees also.
A Pesticide Information Project of Cooperative Extension Offices of Cornell University, Michigan State University, Oregon State University, and University of California at Davis. Major support and funding was provided by the USDA/Extension Service/National Agricultural Pesticide Impact Assessment Program.
________________________________________
Safer's End-All kills all stages of aphids, mites and whiteflies and stops the life-cycle of insects. This natural pest control can be used up to the day of harvest on fruit trees and vegetables. Does not contain piperonyl butoxide (PBO). Concentrate.
link to purchase:
https://www.veseys.com/store.cfm?product=1905&CFID=9666918&CFTOKEN=32160899
A professor of BioChem that works for the Dept of Agro. told me that this was his number one insectiside choice for as close to a natural without truly being one; due to the nature of this formula, it breaks down rapidly leaving no trace of itself in like 24-36 hours especially with heat and light present. But not before it TOTALLY kills all mites, larva, eggs, everything totally and completely!
This is like your Spidermite Nuke only for serious infested stuff and I find mixing it at a ratio (far less that recommended) works great if need be, I mix it at 5 ml. per quart of distilled water. Often times when I troublshoot peeps med grows I will walk into what looks like a spider domain LoL, and as long as you are at least 10 days (i would recommend just to bve safe) from harvest and you can "rain" on your plants a couple days after application, it seems to be no longer present at all in any plant tissues or anything. Even the rinsing of it is a just in case cuz it breaks down so rapidly and totally.
After you are done with the application(s) you can bring the light back in close again.
- REv :smoke1: